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  1. Today
  2. zackmars

    M16A1 "clone"

    Put this together. After a few too many Vietnam war movies, i decided i needed this. The lower is a ruger, since it is what was avalible. The upper assembly is brownells, just to save myself the headache. The furniture is surplus A1 stuff. The brownells stuff is ok, but doesn't feel quite right. The upper has a 1/7 twist, vs the standard 1/12, so it works better with heavier ammo. At 25 yards, i got about a 2 to 3 inch group, 50 yards was about 4, this was with 75gr ammo, 55gr was easily double that, and at 100, 55gr was all over the place, easily over 6 inches. It didn't help that I'm left eye dominant, and due to the lack of brass deflector, my cheek got cut up in short order with 55gr, which seemed to be rather inconsistent in ejection. 75 gr gold dot exited at 4 o'clock consistently. I shot about 200 rounds, including a mixture of brass and steel, and the gun ran fine, but an old usgi 30 round mag had an initial failure to feed, this corrected itself with a tap to the rear of the stock. Its a fun shooter, and at a little over 7lbs it's not too heavy. Sorry for the lack of pictures, everythings a bit hectic right now, so ill get more soon
  3. Last week
  4. PappyHiker

    Picture a day thread!

    Finally bought one. No longer the need to borrow. It's 6 years old but works as new. Even got the original owners manual.
  5. Earlier
  6. Gary_Gough

    Let there be light

    Cell phones in remote places with flaky power; If you use one of these You probably lose your cell phones and internet the second the power fails. So this project. Yes it's just laying there, but that will run a cell booster for 8 hours and swapping out the 18650 cells from the spring battery holder is 8 hours more. This compares to 5 hours with a UPS and a truck battery. Now what it is; the small board with a green light ( full charge indicator ) is a combo battery charger and power booster. I feed the 4.5 volt supply straight into it and it charges the battery pack to 4.2 volts. The black supply is the original power supply for the booster, wired straight through, so when there is electricity it is supplying all the power to the cell booster ( about 5.1 volts ). Now the slight trick. The booster board puts out 5.3 volts, and so would be the power source all the time, and discharge the batteries, so I added a 3 amp fast recovery diode in series with the booster output as I am too lazy to tweak the regulator to exactly 5 volts. End result is 4.8 volts. Since everything has a rectifier output the only thing determining the power source is the relative voltages, and I tested the booster and it's happy over the supply range. So no drop outs, the supply is drawing apx. 1 amp from the 18650 pack which has 8 amp hours of storage, and this takes very little space. I have a similar circuit on the cordless phone base but just floating a single supply as it only draws 150 ma so the charger can handle both the load and charging the battery pack. A couple of charge - boost boards. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32790658678.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32816254080.html depending on if one amp or two amp loads. The smaller is fine for a 5 volt cordless phone base ( or a 5.5 if you change a resistor on the regulator circuit, be aware it's surface mount, don't breath too hard ) . The booster is better with the 2 amp board. These https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803131082.html are a good idea too especially if left unmonitored. Battery protection for over charge, over discharge .. they suggest one per 18650 cell, but on a low demand circuit having one on a 4 cell 3.7 volt pack should be fine. Have fun.
  7. Brad

    Picture a day thread!

    I saw a cat doing cord wraps on YouTube and I decided to apply them to my lighters. It's not much, but it gives me about 7' - 8' of extra cordage. With 3 lighters in most of my bigger kits, that's 21' of extra cordage.
  8. Rick

    survival related humour

  9. dthomasdigital

    survival related humour

    Living in New Mexico I see road runners running from coyotes all the time it's surreal.
  10. Gary_Gough

    survival related humour

  11. zackmars

    Tips and tricks for the beginning skeet shooter

    Outside of backyard clays (hand thrown or small machine), skeet is probably the most fun shotgun game around.
  12. dthomasdigital

    Picture a day thread!

    Placing flags yesterday for Memorial Day services Monday, my family's been doing this for a while now, just feels my heart with pride, I read every name on every grave I place a flag on.
  13. dthomasdigital

    Tips and tricks for the beginning skeet shooter

    I've never done skeet shooting, looks fun and not as near as frustrating as dove hunting.
  14. dthomasdigital

    Picture a day thread!

    I do like those Mora knifes, you need something to get the job done you just can't beat a Mora for the price.
  15. Brad

    Picture a day thread!

    OK, so maybe it's the Picture a quarter thread. Anyway, I was moving some things around and decided to grab all of my knives and put them into one shoot. Some live in my car, some in assorted packs and survival kits, and most in a drawer, The Buck folder (10th down on the left) is my current EDC and the Opinels get a lot of use too. Some of these were gags (huge folder, Rambo style knife). Not the biggest collection, and most are cheap, but here's a pic.
  16. zackmars

    M9A3G

    I ended up removing the wilson combat mag guide. Every once in a while it would catch the lip of the CMI mags if they were partially loaded. Its held in place by a pin, and theres enough play to let it catch. No issues with the factory or mec gar mags
  17. First, what is skeet? Skeet shooting is a shotgun game that has a shooter moving around a course with 8 spots scattered around a half circle course at which they will fire at a clay disc thrown from a throwing machine. In a traditional game, you will have 2 machines, often referred to as "houses", a high house, and a low house. These houses are referred to as such due to the fact that the "high house" is elevated about 8 feet up, while the low house is at ground level. The high house will be on the left side of the course, and the low will be on the right. Each house will throw a clay at an angle. Every skeet range is different, I think ours are >45°. You can either get a clay thrown as a single, or a double. A double is when both the high and low house throw at the same time, a single is just when one house throws A traditional game will have you take 25 shots, and depending on game type/posistion, you will shoot rounds in 2's or 4's, maybe 3, we'll come back to that. Each posistion has a number, as you can see above On posistion 1 and 2, you will shoot 4 rounds at each spot. 2 rounds will be singles, the other 2 will be a double Posistions 3, 4, and 5 will have 2 rounds each. These will typically be singles 6 and 7 are copies of 1 and 2, so 2 singles, and one double each spot. Posistion 8 is either 2 or 3 rounds. If you are a competitive skeet shooter, you will use the 3rd rpund as an "option" so if you know there is a posistion you excell at, you can take the option to get a guaranteed hit. However if its a casual game where score isn't much of a concern, you'll just shoot your last 3 rounds here. Thats the basic gist of a traditional game. Only other thing to say is that you can either do "on pull", or "on report". "On pull" means the next clay will be thrown when you yell "PULL". "On report" means that the next clay will be thrown as soon as you fire your shotgun, you will still need to yell "PULL" for your double (if applicable) or when you start a new posistion. Tips and tricks to get you popping birds If you are new, do not jump into a traditional game. Instead start at tje low house (posistion 7) and have only the low house throw. This is the easiest shot to take, as it's nearly a dead on shot, you don't have to worry about leading the clay, all you have to do is account for the drop. When i teach new shooters, i can get them to hit a clay within a few shots here. Remember to lean into the gun, tuck it into your shoulder and have a good cheek weld. If you aren't 'aiming' properly, you'll never hit the clay. Treat the shotgun as if it's your eye, you do not want your eyes to pick up the clay while your shotgun is pointing somewhere else. What you'll do is you will snap the shotgun to where your eye says the clay is, and sinc the shotgun wasn't tracking the clay, you will overcorrect. In shotgun sports, follow through is critical. Don't stop moving the gun when you pull the trigger. Just keep tracking People like to point, and we're pretty good at it. It's a silly little psychological trick, but it helps. With your weak/non dominant hand, have your pointer finger pointing forward, as if your finger is the barrel of the gun. Equipment. Realistically, all you need is a shotgun and ammo, however, 2 really nice things to have is a shell pouch so you can haul your ammo with you, anf a recoil pad. It's only birdshot, but it adds up fast, and your shoulder will be sore. As for guns, I prefer 12 gauge. 16, 20, 28, and .410 bore will have a higher difficulty curve, due to less payload and velocity. 12 guage has a wider variety of loads. 20 is usually slow enough that i will often have the shooter take a few steps forward so they'll be closer to the clays. Shot size may often be dictated by the range you use. We don't allow anything over #6 bird (smaller the number, bigger the shot size). #7.5 bird gives good performance out of most guns. If you use a semi auto, your gun might need higher velocity shells, the most common velocity is 1200 fps, which is the low end Longer barrels can make it a bit easier, however I've found that 20" is about as short as you can get before you notice the drop off in performance. Like 20 gauge, if someone has a short barrel shotgun or a shockwave/tac 14, I might have them get closer to the clays. Action type. To accommodate double barrels, the posistions are divided by 2, so you fire 2 rounds, move, or load 2 more. With that in mind, a double barrel or semi auto are the most common sights, but if you can run a pump, you will have no issues keeping up. You don't need a 15k krieghoff to be good at the gmae. You just need to play the game. Chokes. If you are a big competitor, they can matter, however if you aren't super serious about it, chokes really won't help, at least in a 12. I use my 590A1 and It's a solid cylinder bore. Get a shorter stock. Prefrebly a heavier one, like a magpul SGA. Factory stocks are too long for the vast majority of people, and added weight can help improve how the gun swings Eye protection, clear is best. Orange will blend the clay in, black can make everything hard to see in overcast/cloudy days A hat is very useful. If you shoot a perfect round, your hat will be shot. Its tradition. No a taurus judge is not a good skeet gun Skeet is a very fun game, and it's very rewarding. It can be tricky to shut off your thinking brain, and use your doing brain, but the first time you make an orange disc go *poof* you'll be hooked.
  18. This weekend is Memorial Day Weekend with people doing all kinds of activities, and like many others I have one busy weekend scheduled. Friday my family traditionally places American Flags at the National Veterans Cemetery in Santa Fe, New Mexico, something that we are very honored to do, it’s such a beautiful and peaceful place. Then on Saturday I’m working the First Aid Station with my local CERT group on the Rio Grande River as the “Float the Rio Grande” event takes place. I’m really hoping people stay safe and wear those life jackets, as the River is flowing at a rate I’ve not seen in 20 years, a good snow pack this year has really pumped the water into the River. I created a good First Aid Station supplies check list for my self to make sure I bring all we may need as a supplement to our official supplies. I’ve included it here in word format in case you might have a use for it. Also I've started a new website The Citizen Medic it's not much right now but when I'm done I hope to have all my checklist and guides listed in one organized location. supplies first aid station.docx
  19. dthomasdigital

    M9A3G

    Great write up and review.
  20. dthomasdigital

    Things I learned in my first training class

    Training is everything.
  21. zackmars

    M9A3G

    Forgot some pics of the wear
  22. Daimond25

    Poisons Arounds US

  23. zackmars

    M9A3G

    M9A3G To start off with, the M9A3 isn't a cheap gun, I paid $841 (after tax) for mine. It's easy to scoff at the price, since regular M9's can often be had for $450. However the A3 has some interesting features. Vertec frame, threaded barrel, *replaceable* factory tritium night sights, 3 PVD coated 17 round mags, ammo can case, factory D-spring, and an extra backstrap that mimics the regular 92FS grip. I will add I get near dealer pricing on gun thanks to a generous boss. I've seen M9A3FS's go for around $860 before tax/fees. Despite being one of the newer additions to the Beretta family, there's a lot of familiar things. The barrel clocks in at 5.2", has a 1/2"×28 thread pinch, the frame uses the same magazines, and the internals are all the same. Nothing on this gun is new for Beretta, but it's the first time its been offered all at once. The threaded barrel comes with a thread protector and and some o-rings, so it won't unthread itself. The ammo can case isn't super high quality, but it beats the crap out of the standard blue case. It's a flambeu can, so the "o ring" that seals the can is just a bit of rubberized foam string. Inside everything is nicely packed, and is one of the nicer cases I've seen handguns come in. The color of the can also matches your pistol, which is a nice touch. The box that the can comes in has this target printed on it. Not going to lie, I don't quite get this, as it has a line to fill in a lot code, something the factory would fill out. I like to imagine some get shot up at the factory as a test target, and some M9A3's are shipping out in boxes riddled with holes. They aren't, but hey. Other noteworthy things you get. A nice manual, it's black and white, but pretty well constructed and is pretty thorough. You get a nice exploded view of the pistol and a table that tells you when to replace the springs (it says 5,000 rounds 3 times) the manual is shared between the FS and G variants. Unfortunately the manuals covers are FDE no matter which color you get. You also get a beretta cable lock. People talk crap about Berettas cable lock, and yeah it's nothing more than a false sense of security, but it's a lot nicer than the cheap ones Glock and Walther use. Note these cable locks also do not match the pistol. The frame is aluminum, and has the cross checkering similar to the M9A1, and also has the flat face trigger guard. The rail has 3 picatinny slots so you can fit pretty much any accessory you want there. Inside the frame, its business as usual. You do get a lighter hammer spring, which tames the DA trigger. Unfortunately our trigger pull scale got nuked, so I can't give any weights. Needless to say the Beretta makes the Walther P.38 feel like you are trying to compress 2 bricks together. Many people complain about the M9's grip size, and the vertec frame is Berettas answer. It, for many people is a take it or leave it type deal, whichever grip you prefer, beretta includes a backstrap that approximates the current grip on the 92/M9A1. It's close, but not 100% the same since the backstrap is rubberized. It feels good, but I've noticed that it doesn't seem to effect my shooting. I played with a few grip scales, but only 1 actually worked, some stoner cnc ones. Coolhand caused the trigger bar not to reset, and some wood grips had the screw holes all over the place. While grip options aren't as numerous as the standard frame style, quite a few options are out there. AFAIK, no one else makes a backstrap style. While the stoner CNC ones did work, they were improperly cut and were absurdly uncomfortable. Current grips are standard FDE thin grips. I'm actually angry about the wood grips, they would have looked beautiful. Reliability. Current round count is at 1,000 rounds, and the gun has eaten a mix of brass case, steel case, aluminum, and nickel, and the gun has had no real malfunctions. Even winchester forged. I like to jumble up ammo, and the gun runs. So far the only malfs have been failures to lock open on an empty mag with steel case. The slide has quite a few new things going on, obviously it has a threaded barrel, but the front sight is sitting in a dovetail (and has a tritium lamp), and are sitting just a tad taller to help clear a suppressor, though it's my understanding that they are still too short to clear a can. My gun in particular is a G variant, which means there is no manual safety, just a straight decocker. One thing pictures do not show is that the G variant right side lever blobs out quite a bit. It's not contoured like the F variant. It technically doesn't extend any more than the lever, but it's a bit of an eye-sore. The Beretta has proven to be very accurate, I'm still relatively new to the gun, and surprising to me is that I'm getting 1-2 fliers on single action. SA gives me this at 7 yards with 115gr armscor I'm having quite a bit of fun popping water bottles and soda cans and clay pigeons at 15 yards, trying to take one shot only. Here's a 15 yard target, 15 rounds. (This was before i adjusted my sights), I've said some things about DA/SA, and still believe them, mainly that it can be a difficult trigger to master. However, I was pretty surprised to find that the Beretta was so easy to pick up. After shooting over 9,000 rounds through my G19X, I occasionally flinch expecting there to be a bit less takeup on SA. This is what causes my fliers. The A3's trigger manages to strike the right balance for me. It doesn't trap me into wanting to bump fire it, and it's heavy enough while not having any grit. Reset is audible and tactile, which is my only real must in a trigger. I've read the M9A3 has a higher quality sear, and I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case. The sights are rather basic 3 dot tritium square notch night sights. Given the option, I think I'd rather have some trijicon hd/xr/ameriglo agent style sights, with a U notch and fiber optic ring around the front, but thats not possible. Beretta does have a square notch version, but they're sold out. Out of the box the pistol shot left for me, so the sight got bumped. The Beretta is a big gun, so it's not the funest thing to carry, but its doable. I still will carry my glocks on a hot day, but after I hit the 500 round mark the Beretta has found It's place. It certainly makes a great winter, and bedside gun. A good stiff belt really helps. So far, here is the wear, some holster wear, and some from firing. I belive the black finish is Beretta's standard bruntion and anodized finish, and it seems to be holding up ok. Its a relatively grippy finish, which is nice. I'd be lying if I said I didn't find black berettas to have attractive wear patters. If black isn't your thing, Beretta also has olive drab/black, grey/black, and flat dark earth. Afaik the other finishes are ceracoat, which I am personally not a fan of. The magazines that come with the gun are 17 rounders with a very nice PVD coating, but any 92 magazine with the proper catch cuts will work. I've been mostly using mec gar 18 and 20 round mags, and haven't had any trouble. I also scrounged a few flush fit CMI 15 rounders that I use for a bit of extra concealment. I will say one bad thing about the 17 round mags, they are absurdly difficult to load to capacity. I'm not kidding, even my Up-Lulas struggle to put in 17, and I've lost 2 glock mag loaders to these mags. Note the pistol doesn't come with a loading tool Holster availability is... Interesting, for berettas. If you have a holster meant for an M9A1, the A3 will work. Everything else MIGHT work, depending on how fit a holster is, but there's no guarante. I'm trying out a crossbreed, and jurys out. For work, I'm using a safariland 3280. SLS isn't my jam, but it works well enough. I found a 7ts that works, but having heard and seen (not personally) 7ts holsters cracking, this holster isn't my favorite. I always have an M12, and that thing works with everything. For fancier occasions I got a nice leather thumb break from Berettas e-store. My go-to magpul belts don't really have the strength to handle the Beretta, but I've been using one of THESE, and it works beautifully. I have changed the gun up a bit, a wilson fluted guide rod, a Wilson mag guide, and elite II hammer. I messed around with a Wolff TCU, but found that it was too short to allow the DA trigger to reset. For those who like to mix and match their Berettas, the M9A3 is fully compatible with the other 9X guns, save for the 92A1/90-two (Beretta needs an intervention in the name dept) these two exceptions, while largely based on the 9X series, were a evolutionary dead end, but many parts still interchange with the 92A1 in particular. Detail stripping the 9X berettas, while not as simple as a Glock, is IMHO easier than Sig or CZ. These are older guns, designed in the 60's and 70's, you are going to have to deal with this stuff with all of them. The frame isn't too bad, but the slide is something that I try to avoid. At the very least, there aren't many wear parts on the beretta that you can't get to quickly. Even the springs are pretty easy to deal with. The M9A3 isn't a pistol I'd reccomend to everyone, DA/SA, while arguably a good and safe fighting trigger, takes time to master. The gun costs more, and is more complex than many striker fired 9mm's that populate the market. Being aluminum framed, it also weighs more. Though it still shows CZ's up as the pigs they really are. I'd say something about Sigs but when you have as many variations as Sig does, saying anything becomes near impossible. The M9A3 balances better, and isn't made by Sig, which is really all you need to know. However, if you can swing the price, and put the time and money into practice, the M9A3 is certainly a capable pistol. Mec gar mags certainly make the deal sweeter, flush fit 18 round mags make it all that much better. Being the side arm for the US military for almost 40 years, and being one of the most tested handguns in history, it's a safe bet that the 92 series is a good gun. Since I couldn't figure out where to put this, the very end seems to be a good spot. All guns have a certain "X factor". A little thing that makes you go "ahh yes" like a small pocket pistol that lets you carry almost everywhere, something that makes you realize what you've been missing The Berettas x factor is how incredibly smooth it is. Even fresh out of the box, the M9A3's slide feels like ball bearings on glass, and the trigger just feels good. Compared to the Taurus 92's, which I've had a few people mention, the A3 is on a completely different level, even standard 92's fall short of the A3. I like it a lot, but if you just want a good, reliable handgun, just get a modern striker fired pistol.
  24. Daimond25

    Poisons Arounds US

    Potatoes naturally produce solanine and chaconine, a related glycoalkaloid, as a defense mechanism against insects, disease, and herbivores. Potato leaves, stems, and shootsare naturally high in glycoalkaloids. When potato tubers are exposed to light, they turn green and increase glycoalkaloid production. This is a natural defense to help prevent the uncovered tuber from being eaten. The green colour is from chlorophyll, and is itself harmless. However, it is an indication that increased level of solanine and chaconine may be present. In potato tubers, 30–80% of the solanine develops in and close to the skin, and some potato varieties have high levels of solanine. Some potato diseases, such as late blight, can dramatically increase the levels of glycoalkaloids present in potatoes. Tubers damaged in harvesting and/or transport also produce increased levels of glycoalkaloids; this is believed to be a natural reaction of the plant in response to disease and damage. In the 1970s, solanine poisoning affected 78 schoolboys in Britain. Due to immediate and effective treatments, no one died.[9] Green colouring under the skin strongly suggests solanine build-up in potatoes, although each process can occur without the other. A bitter taste in a potato is another, potentially more reliable indicator of toxicity. Because of the bitter taste and appearance of such potatoes, solanine poisoning is rare outside conditions of food shortage. The symptoms are mainly vomiting and diarrhea, and the condition may be misdiagnosed as gastroenteritis. Most potato poisoning victims recover fully, although fatalities are known, especially when victims are undernourished or do not receive suitable treatment.[9]Fatalities are also known from solanine poisoning from other plants in the nightshade family, such as the berries of Solanum dulcamara (woody nightshade).[10] The United States National Institutes of Health's information on solanine strongly advises against eating potatoes that are green below the skin.[11] Home processing methods (boiling, cooking, frying) have small and variable effects on glycoalkaloids. For example, boiling potatoes reduces the α-chaconine and α-solanine levels by only 3.5% and 1.2% respectively, though microwaving causes a reduction by 15%. Deep-frying at 150 °C (302 °F) does not result in any measurable change, though significant degradation of the glycoalkaloids starts at ∼170 °C (338 °F), and deep-frying at 210 °C (410 °F) for 10 min causes a loss of ∼40%.[12] Freeze-drying or dehydration has little effect.[13] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solanine History of Poison Potatao
  25. 10,000 rounds through one gun taught me a lot, but all i was doing was making a hole. Should I, god forbid, need to use a handgun defensively, some actual training would most definitely come in handy. An opportunity arose to take a rather informal corse with a local instructor, and I jumped at the chance. I'm not kidding when i say that I learned more in those few hours than I did in over 10 years of shooting on my own The point of this post is to both point out that you don't need to spend thousands of dollars to get training from Larry Vickers, or Travis Haley, you need someone who knows how to teach and can keep their eyes on you. And can shoot well, of course. While my class was free, ammo wasn't, and I would have happily paid for the class itself. What did I learn? Focus on front sight, don't worry about speed. Stance needs work. Get out of 2 shot rut. Learn to use cover, avoid fatal funnels. Be willing to move. Large and bright front sights help. My 19X had ameriglo agents, and I still lost the front sight once or twice Stop using bench at range to help stand up, creating a scar Posistion 3/point shooting needs work. The "scenarios" were just left over USPSA stages, and we were treating it as a house/building. I found it difficult to treat the barricades as actual "cover", since I could see right through them. My first few runs were rough due to me wanting to pop every target I saw at each spot, which was all of them. Somewhat related, I need to be more willing to to move and shoot, though we really didn't do a whole lot of moving while shooting, aside from a few figure 8 drills (walking a figure 8 around 2 55gal drums while shooting 1 target. This is my 2 shot rut. The point is that shooting twice might not be necessary, you may need to shoot 1, 3, 4, 5, etc times, and a double tap might be too much, or too little. I need to slow down. While I didn't rush myself, and I look like a snail next to whichever A-lister taran tactical is training, there were a few shots I flubbed simply due to me not slowing down just a tad. We also did come cadence drills, where the goal is to have target transitions match your split time. I understand the principles behind it, bit I'm not sure what I got out of it. To delve a bit further in, you have an array of 3 targets, starting on the left target, the left gets 1 shot, second gets 2, third target gets 3, you then move back to the second target, shoot it 4 times, and move back to the first, and pop it 5 times. After doing this, we simplified it to shooting each target once. It made a bit more sense after that. Point shooting could use more work i feel. We (me and my co-worker were both hitting a steel target about 50% of the time at 20/25 yards. I tapped out at 20. My draw needed some real work, and so draw and presentations have been added to my dry fire routine, but I was surprised to find my draw time wasn't that bad, at under 2 seconds consistently. I was using a safariland ALS though. Which is near cheating. Apparently I did better than I thought I did. Of the 4 times we did the scenario, I only fragged a hostage once, and it was an arm shot. As far as gear goes, well, mag pouches are an absolute must. And even with 20 rounds in the gun, it goes QUICK. Training is worth it's weight in gold. It's important that you go in with an open mind, and be willing to take any criticism that comes your way. If you are around Houston/Clear lake, and need some pistol instruction/LTC classes, hit up Viper weapons.
  26. Daimond25

    Poisons Arounds US

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_poisonous_plants Sometimes we eat not realize they are toxic if we not handle properly it become toxic and led to tragedy or see ornament plant look beautiful and look harmless but the truth they are very poisonus and toxic! *Report of poisonus Potato! https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/plantox/detail.cfm?id=1364 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_poisonous_fungus_species https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_poisonous_animals
  27. I've tried to build a makeshift shelter before on my own and it's definitely easier said than done. After reading your post though I think I'm going to try to build one again and see if I can't make it any better.
  28. dthomasdigital

    Stop The Bleed

    I started my stop the bleed Instructor class last night hope to start teaching soon, meeting with my local CERT (community emergency response team) tomorrow night to talk about that among other things. Has anyone on survival threads taken any Stop the bleed courses? If you have what did you like, what could gave been done better.
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