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zackmars

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Posts posted by zackmars


  1. I've put about 3k through the Beretta. 

     

    Only malfunctions have been user induced. I think I'm riding the slide stop. The thicker backstrap prevents this, and I'd rather take the easy way out instead of re-learning how to hold a gun. Its not an issue that i can get to happen consistently.

     

     

    As for holsters, ive taken to using a bubba'd alien gear. The crossbreed has a crazy amount of retention, and a few others I've tried have too little.

     

    I've had the opportunity to handle a few other beretta m9a3's, and they are very consistent. Beretta has consistency nailed down, far better than CZ or Sig

     

    Some rust showed up on the grip screws, so those were replaced with houge stainless grip screws

     

    The gun seems to slightly prefer 147gr ammo. This is in contrast with gen 5 glocks, that seem to shoot 115gr a bit better. All my carry ammo is 147gr, so I'm happy.

     

    I wish the front sight was a tad larger, with a bigger tritium lamp. Its like 6" out there, it could stand to be larger. That said i don't loose it during recoil. The transistion from double to single isn't that bad thanks to growing up with a P.38, and a lighter hammer spring. The reset on SA has just enough take-up to not make me feel like the gun was going to outrun me, like on my PPQ


  2. Looks like a clone of the marlin 795 or mossberg plinkster rifles. Being a blowback .22lr, there's a limit to how different you can be.

     

    All things being equal, I'd go with the marlin version, as marlins "micro groove" .22lr barrels are fantastically accurate, and there's not a huge difference between them price wise. I don't think mags interchange between them unfortunately.

    • Like 1

  3. My experience with my p32 and kel tec in general was not great.

     

    I got one as an inheritance from my moms co-worker who lost his bout with cancer. At first i really liked it, it was small, and slim, and i was ok with only having it in .32

     

    I had to hold off a while to shoot it to get some ammo, but once i did, i pulled it out of the safe, and i noticed a big bulge in the frame. I field stripped it, and the gun came apart, i think the hammer spring broke in half, and the frame bulge means the spring that holds the takedown pin in won't stay where in needs to be

     

    Anyways, I open a CS ticket with keltec, and i explain that the gun was an inheritance, and was used. I told them i was willing to pay for shipping and repairs, only for them to close the ticket without explanation. I sent off another email and they asked if i didn't see what the CS rep said (well duh, and even if i did, there isn't anything i could do on a closed ticket) and then they went on about how i need the FFL info and other info i had no way of getting.

     

    Needless to say i still have that thing in parts. If it were a simple broken spring, that'd be an easy fix, but the frame is a bit jacked up as well.

     

     

    I hope your experience is better than mine, but if i need a serious use gun, kel tec isn't goimg to be my first choice.

    • Like 1

  4. This isn't my gun, it belongs to a fellow RSO

     

    It was bought new from cabellas, for a bit over $600, and came with a sig red dot.

     

    Gun was carried iwb for 3 days and developed rust bad enough that I'd consider it pitting the sights have surface rust, but those are made by ameriglo. Notably its only surface rust there. There is what looks like a spec of rust on the barrel, but it is beyond the capabilities of my camera to document

     

    5 days of carrying, and thorough oiling, rust came back even worse, it got to the point where the mag release would stick open, and a magazine would not lock into the gun.

     

    Sig was contacted, and wanted to see the pistol, but wanted the owner to pay for shipping both ways, and pay for replacement parts, which totaled out to over $200, on a gun where they confirmed that this shouldn't happen

     

    They also said that the slide lock, takedown lever, and mag release button are made of 3 different materials, but that sounds like complete nonsense to me, as most of the guns internals are MIM.

     

    On the positve side, the gun hasn't had any other issues in 600 or so rounds, and is accurate.

     

    Sig has some cool designs, but I don't think they can be trusted to deliver on them properly

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  5. Got the G45 today. I do like the flared magwell.

     

    Trigger isn't worn in like my 19x so i still need to get used to it. Im lukewarm to the forward slide serrations

     

    750 rounds through it. Had a fiocchi 124gr ftf. Was most likely an ammo issue. The hit on the primer was as solid as can be and 3 re strikes did nothing. I also noted all my fiocchi ammo had what looked like corrosion on the primers, and I've heard other people mention this happening

     

     

     

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  6. Old post, but maybe this will help. Did a stop the bleed class a few weeks ago

     

    Would have liked a bit more reccomendations on gear, especially TQ's, or at least which ones to avoid. Our guy showed us CAT's and SWAT TQ's, and briefly mentioned SOF-T TQ's

     

    A more detailed description of what should and shouldn't be in an IFAK, how to organize it, etc would have been nice

     

    I liked how he stressed organization, one guy calls 911, one guy gives aid, one guy gets the attention of the EMS people, etc. Carrying people and recovery posistion was good info as well

    • Like 1

  7. 6 hours ago, ratter said:

    2-3" is not good at 50 yds, other than from a 9mm pistol. That was my point. i'd toss a rifle that I couldn't get 1" at 50 yds from, even with iron sights. When you KNOW the gun's empty, of course you dont flinch. Like I said, it's a subconscious thing. Mix in some dummy rounds with live rds and watch your front sight when you drop the hammer on a dud. Or have a friend cycle the bolt with his back to you and then hand you the rifle, so you wont know if it's loaded or not. He'll have to know how to hold over the mag catch, so that you wont hear it click when he's lowered the mag, letting the bolt shut on an empty chamber.

    Ok. Sure thing pal.


  8. 12 minutes ago, ratter said:

    bs, penetration beyond the vitals is pointless and that's mostly what you get. I'd happily settle for a bullet that "only" penetrates 8" of animal flesh, live ones, now, if it destroys lots of tissue and has lots of energy for shock effect. The more you destroy and shock/hurt the mofo, the more likely he is to NOTICE that he's hit. He has to NOTICE in order for psych factors to have an effect. Blood loss ALWAYS takes at least  4 seconds, which is at least  3 seconds way too damned slow.  60 gr 223 softpoints stop people RFN, while 30 AK ball fails quite often, despite (because of, actually) they penetrate much more deeply. The problem with ammo is not that it under penetrates, it's that it doesn't expand waf in flesh and blood.  Jello performance means nothing. They ADMIT that it doens't simulate organ tissue. They'll flat out tell you that it's just for comparisons of how loads do in jello. Marshall is just a fucking liar. Many instances of his claims to have insider info have been proven to be lies. I've shot hundreds of animals with CCW type guns and loads. I KNOW what works in flesh and blood and it's only the lightest, fastest bullets in each caliber.  We need a 100 gr jhp in .40.  135 gr is either too slow or has too much recoil in a lw, compact ccw pistol. When you get more than 16 factor recoil momentum, you've got control problems that you dont need. My 500 ft lb load for my Sig P938 has a 10 factor recoil.   45 grs at 2200 fps. Solid aluminum, hollowbased, hp, slit nearly in half lengthwise. Animal tests prove it to be more effective than 125 gr jhp's in 2.5" barrels, and the Sig is just 6"x4.5" and 15 ozs.  it's also AP, so that's a nice extra.  and the recol is that of a Makarov. When I practice with the  Sig, it's with  125 gr lrn at  800 fps, but most of my practicing is with an alloy framed 9mm commander variant, using  160 gr lrn at 850 fps. That low velocity keeps the fouling down and prevents keyholing.  I dont like having the fouling and wear of practice on my ccw pistol. 

    The value of the pre-segmented bullet, at Mach II is that the segments penetrate clothing skin and sternum/ribs as one piece, then the unstable, full length segments diverge, giving two wound tracks. Due to the very high impact velocites, the temporary gas cavities WILL damage organ tissue that gets "caught" between the two temporary caviities.🙂

    You are missing the point. Ballistics gel is not meant to simulate tissue, it is supposed to provide a stable, controllable medium to compare one round to another.

     

    It is formulated to be CLOSE to human tissue, yes, but not meant to be exactly the same. The reason why so much penetration is required is because people have bones that protect important organs.

     

    Its funny how the rounds that do REALLY well in ballistics get testing has a very good record in the streets? Gold dot, HST, the various winchester loadings, all have excellent reputations. If you really had the answer, you'd have big bucks and all the ammo companies trying to get you to design for them.

     

    But you don't, and if i have to pick between shade tree ballistics, or millions of dollars of research and decades of real world data, its not a hard choice


  9. 2 hours ago, ratter said:

    how do you know that  you're not flinching? Are you checking with dummy rounds, or with video or having someobody watch your face and hands as you fire? Almost nobody realizes it when they are flinching. It's a subconscious thing. Those are very, very poor groups. Many  pistol will shoot better than that, and I mean a normal 9mm.

    I do lots of dry fire practice, both at home, and at the range with snap caps. I don't flinch.

     

    No, those are not very poor groups. The A1 has a pencil barrel, non free floated, on a hot Texas day, using a twist that is not meant to shoot 55gr, none of those things are good for accuracy, but if i want accuracy, i want a 77gr SMK, not a crappy 55gr pill.

    You also seem to be ignoring the part i said about 75gr ammo getting 2-3" at 50 yards

    To top it off the stringing was confirmed by another shooter at 100 yards, who also got about a 6" group, and I know this guy is a far better rifle shooter than I am.

     

    This isn't my first 1/7 ar. The first upper i had used that twist was also not great with 55gr, and again, multiple people habe confirmed it.

     

    It's easy to ignore the equipment and blame the user, but sometimes thats not the case.


  10. 57 minutes ago, ratter said:

    Is there any evidence that he was not correct?

    It's around, lots of write ups out there by Dr. Gary Roberts and others.check lightfighter, pistol-forum, and maybe m4carbine. While not as technical, TNoutdoors9 makes some good videos

     

    He was right about HP's needing hydraulic force to expand, but decades of testing and examinations of real world shootings disprove his other statements.

     

    The biggest factor in handgun projectiles is penetration, after all, hadguns only stop the fight if a critical organ is shut down, other wise you are playing a waiting game hoping the threat stops due to blood loss.

    Penetration is the biggest problem with light for caliber bullets, they just dont have the ability to get to the important bits.

     

    Id rather carry FMJ's than a super lightweight JHP


  11. 4 hours ago, ratter said:

    I've always shot left handed and have never been hit with an ejected casing?  many thousands of rds. The accuracy sounds terrible, but I've never shot one with 1 in 7 twist. I've always used 1 in 9" or 1 in  12".  I'm looking at a 10.5" with M4 contour, tho. If it wont group 3" at 100 yds with cheap steel cased  55 gr ammo tho, I'll junk it.  Have a friend swiss load the gun, turning  his back and mixing in dummy rds. and watch your face as you hit the duds.  Either you're flinching, or the barrel or ammo suck, or your sight is moving around. cause that's horrible accuracy. consider getting an RRA drop in trigger job. You need to learn to shoot longarms from either shoulder, anyway, so that you are not shooting right handed around the left side of cover, exposing your entire torso. So shoot right handed. The brass hitting you is highly likely to have caused flinching problems. I'd have a smith work on the extractor and ejector until that problem disappeared.

    Not fliching, brownells put an o-ring on the extractor spring, ejectior tension was just too much.

     

    Have shot a few of the RRA units. The LaRue i have in this rifle is far superior imho.

     

    55gr is plinking ammo. Modern bullet technology has left it far behind, and if i need to use this rifle, i don't want the cheapest option to be my only option. Bullets over 60gr perform much better both at shot range and long range with 5.56. When the chips are down, I'm not going to be shooting something with a failure rate of 15%.

     

    Oh, and I can shoot rifles from either shoulder, but I'm left eye dominant, so thats usually the deciding factor


  12. Put this together. After a few too many Vietnam war movies, i decided i needed this. The lower is a ruger, since it is what was avalible. The upper assembly is brownells, just to save myself the headache.

     

    The furniture is surplus A1 stuff. The brownells stuff is ok, but doesn't feel quite right.

     

    The upper has a 1/7 twist, vs the standard 1/12, so it works better with heavier ammo. At 25 yards, i got about a 2 to 3 inch group, 50 yards was about 4, this was with 75gr ammo, 55gr was easily double that, and at 100, 55gr was all over the place, easily over 6 inches.

     

    It didn't help that I'm left eye dominant, and due to the lack of brass deflector, my cheek got cut up in short order with 55gr, which seemed to be rather inconsistent in ejection. 75 gr gold dot exited at 4 o'clock consistently.

     

    I shot about 200 rounds, including a mixture of brass and steel, and the gun ran fine, but an old usgi 30 round mag had an initial failure to feed, this corrected itself with a tap to the rear of the stock.

     

    Its a fun shooter, and at a little over 7lbs it's not too heavy. 

     

    Sorry for the lack of pictures, everythings a bit hectic right now, so ill get more soon20190717_131145.thumb.jpg.f83988e7ee1997251b396149cc99d910.jpg


  13. I ended up removing the wilson combat mag guide. Every once in a while it would catch the lip of the CMI mags if they were partially loaded.

     

    Its held in place by a pin, and theres enough play to let it catch. No issues with the factory or mec gar mags


  14. First, what is skeet? Skeet shooting is a shotgun game that has a shooter moving around a course with 8 spots scattered around a half circle course at which they will fire at a clay disc thrown from a throwing machine. In a traditional game, you will have 2 machines, often referred to as "houses", a high house, and a low house.

    These houses are referred to as such due to the fact that the "high house" is elevated about 8 feet up, while the low house is at ground level. The high house will be on the left side of the course, and the low will be on the right. Each house will throw a clay at an angle. Every skeet range is different, I think ours are >45°.

    You can either get a clay thrown as a single, or a double. A double is when both the high and low house throw at the same time, a single is just when one house throws

    A traditional game will have you take 25 shots, and depending on game type/posistion, you will shoot rounds in 2's or 4's, maybe 3, we'll come back to that.

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    Each posistion has a number, as you can see above

     

    On posistion 1 and 2, you will shoot 4 rounds at each spot. 2 rounds will be singles, the other 2 will be a double

     

    Posistions 3, 4, and 5 will have 2 rounds each. These will typically be singles

    6 and 7 are copies of 1 and 2, so 2 singles, and one double each spot.

     

    Posistion 8 is either 2 or 3 rounds. If you are a competitive skeet shooter, you will use the 3rd rpund as an "option" so if you know there is a posistion you excell at, you can take the option to get a guaranteed hit. However if its a casual game where score isn't much of a concern, you'll just shoot your last 3 rounds here.

     

    Thats the basic gist of a traditional game. Only other thing to say is that you can either do "on pull", or "on report". "On pull" means the next clay will be thrown when you yell "PULL". "On report" means that the next clay will be thrown as soon as you fire your shotgun, you will still need to yell "PULL" for your double (if applicable) or when you start a new posistion.

     

    Tips and tricks to get you popping birds

     

    If you are new, do not jump into a traditional game. Instead start at tje low house (posistion 7) and have only the low house throw. This is the easiest shot to take, as it's nearly a dead on shot, you don't have to worry about leading the clay, all you have to do is account for the drop. When i teach new shooters, i can get them to hit a clay within a few shots here.

     

    Remember to lean into the gun, tuck it into your shoulder and have a good cheek weld. If you aren't 'aiming' properly, you'll never hit the clay.

     

    Treat the shotgun as if it's your eye, you do not want your eyes to pick up the clay while your shotgun is pointing somewhere else. What you'll do is you will snap the shotgun to where your eye says the clay is, and sinc the shotgun wasn't tracking the clay, you will overcorrect. In shotgun sports, follow through is critical. Don't stop moving the gun when you pull the trigger. Just keep tracking

     

    People like to point, and we're pretty good at it. It's a silly little psychological trick, but it helps. With your weak/non dominant hand, have your pointer finger pointing forward, as if your finger is the barrel of the gun.

     

    Equipment. Realistically, all you need is a shotgun and ammo, however, 2 really nice things to have is a shell pouch so you can haul your ammo with you, anf a recoil pad. It's only birdshot, but it adds up fast, and your shoulder will be sore.

     

    As for guns, I prefer 12 gauge. 16, 20, 28, and .410 bore will have a higher difficulty curve, due to less payload and velocity. 12 guage has a wider variety of loads. 20 is usually slow enough that i will often have the shooter take a few steps forward so they'll be closer to the clays.

     

    Shot size may often be dictated by the range you use. We don't allow anything over #6 bird (smaller the number, bigger the shot size). #7.5 bird gives good performance out of most guns. If you use a semi auto, your gun might need higher velocity shells, the most common velocity is 1200 fps, which is the low end

     

    Longer barrels can make it a bit easier, however I've found that 20" is about as short as you can get before you notice the drop off in performance. Like 20 gauge, if someone has a short barrel shotgun or a shockwave/tac 14, I might have them get closer to the clays.

    Action type. To accommodate double barrels, the posistions are divided by 2, so you fire 2 rounds, move, or load 2 more. With that in mind, a double barrel or semi auto are the most common sights, but if you can run a pump, you will have no issues keeping up. You don't need a 15k krieghoff to be good at the gmae. You just need to play the game.

    Chokes. If you are a big competitor, they can matter, however if you aren't super serious about it, chokes really won't help, at least in a 12. I use my 590A1 and It's a solid cylinder bore.

     

    Get a shorter stock. Prefrebly a heavier one, like a magpul SGA. Factory stocks are too long for the vast majority of people, and added weight can help improve how the gun swings

    Eye protection, clear is best. Orange will blend the clay in, black can make everything hard to see in overcast/cloudy days

    A hat is very useful. If you shoot a perfect round, your hat will be shot. Its tradition.

    No a taurus judge is not a good skeet gun

     

    Skeet is a very fun game, and it's very rewarding. It can be tricky to shut off your thinking brain, and use your doing brain, but the first time you make an orange disc go *poof* you'll be hooked.

    • Like 1

  15. M9A3G

    To start off with, the M9A3 isn't a cheap gun, I paid $841 (after tax) for mine. It's easy to scoff at the price, since regular M9's can often be had for $450. However the A3 has some interesting features. Vertec frame, threaded barrel, *replaceable* factory tritium night sights, 3 PVD coated 17 round mags, ammo can case, factory D-spring, and an extra backstrap that mimics the regular 92FS grip.

    I will add I get near dealer pricing on gun thanks to a generous boss. I've seen M9A3FS's go for around $860 before tax/fees.

    Despite being one of the newer additions to the Beretta family, there's a lot of familiar things. The barrel clocks in at 5.2", has a 1/2"×28 thread pinch, the frame uses the same magazines, and the internals are all the same. Nothing on this gun is new for Beretta, but it's the first time its been offered all at once. The threaded barrel comes with a thread protector and and some o-rings, so it won't unthread itself.

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    The ammo can case isn't super high quality, but it beats the crap out of the standard blue case. It's a flambeu can, so the "o ring" that seals the can is just a bit of rubberized foam string. Inside everything is nicely packed, and is one of the nicer cases I've seen handguns come in. The color of the can also matches your pistol, which is a nice touch. The box that the can comes in has this target printed on it. Not going to lie, I don't quite get this, as it has a line to fill in a lot code, something the factory would fill out. I like to imagine some get shot up at the factory as a test target, and some M9A3's are shipping out in boxes riddled with holes. They aren't, but hey.

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    Other noteworthy things you get. A nice manual, it's black and white, but pretty well constructed and is pretty thorough. You get a nice exploded view of the pistol and a table that tells you when to replace the springs (it says 5,000 rounds 3 times) the manual is shared between the FS and G variants. Unfortunately the manuals covers are FDE no matter which color you get. You also get a beretta cable lock. People talk crap about Berettas cable lock, and yeah it's nothing more than a false sense of security, but it's a lot nicer than the cheap ones Glock and Walther use. Note these cable locks also do not match the pistol.

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    The frame is aluminum, and has the cross checkering similar to the M9A1, and also has the flat face trigger guard. The rail has 3 picatinny slots so you can fit pretty much any accessory you want there. Inside the frame, its business as usual. You do get a lighter hammer spring, which tames the DA trigger. Unfortunately our trigger pull scale got nuked, so I can't give any weights. Needless to say the Beretta makes the Walther P.38 feel like you are trying to compress 2 bricks together.

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    Many people complain about the M9's grip size, and the vertec frame is Berettas answer. It, for many people is a take it or leave it type deal, whichever grip you prefer, beretta includes a backstrap that approximates the current grip on the 92/M9A1. It's close, but not 100% the same since the backstrap is rubberized. It feels good, but I've noticed that it doesn't seem to effect my shooting. I played with a few grip scales, but only 1 actually worked, some stoner cnc ones. Coolhand caused the trigger bar not to reset, and some wood grips had the screw holes all over the place. While grip options aren't as numerous as the standard frame style, quite a few options are out there. AFAIK, no one else makes a backstrap style. While the stoner CNC ones did work, they were improperly cut and were absurdly uncomfortable. Current grips are standard FDE thin grips.

    I'm actually angry about the wood grips, they would have looked beautiful.

    Reliability. Current round count is at 1,000 rounds, and the gun has eaten a mix of brass case, steel case, aluminum, and nickel, and the gun has had no real malfunctions. Even winchester forged. I like to jumble up ammo, and the gun runs. So far the only malfs have been failures to lock open on an empty mag with steel case.

    The slide has quite a few new things going on, obviously it has a threaded barrel, but the front sight is sitting in a dovetail (and has a tritium lamp), and are sitting just a tad taller to help clear a suppressor, though it's my understanding that they are still too short to clear a can. My gun in particular is a G variant, which means there is no manual safety, just a straight decocker.

    One thing pictures do not show is that the G variant right side lever blobs out quite a bit. It's not contoured like the F variant. It technically doesn't extend any more than the lever, but it's a bit of an eye-sore.

    The Beretta has proven to be very accurate, I'm still relatively new to the gun, and surprising to me is that I'm getting 1-2 fliers on single action. SA gives me this at 7 yards with 115gr armscor

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    I'm having quite a bit of fun popping water bottles and soda cans and clay pigeons at 15 yards, trying to take one shot only. 

    Here's a 15 yard target, 15 rounds. (This was before i adjusted my sights),

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    I've said some things about DA/SA, and still believe them, mainly that it can be a difficult trigger to master. However, I was pretty surprised to find that the Beretta was so easy to pick up. After shooting over 9,000 rounds through my G19X, I occasionally flinch expecting there to be a bit less takeup on SA. This is what causes my fliers. The A3's trigger manages to strike the right balance for me. It doesn't trap me into wanting to bump fire it, and it's heavy enough while not having any grit. Reset is audible and tactile, which is my only real must in a trigger. I've read the M9A3 has a higher quality sear, and I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case. 

    The sights are rather basic 3 dot tritium square notch night sights. Given the option, I think I'd rather have some trijicon hd/xr/ameriglo agent style sights, with a U notch and fiber optic ring around the front, but thats not possible. Beretta does have a square notch version, but they're sold out. Out of the box the pistol shot left for me, so the sight got bumped.

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    The Beretta is a big gun, so it's not the funest thing to carry, but its doable. I still will carry my glocks on a hot day, but after I hit the 500 round mark the Beretta has found It's place. It certainly makes a great winter, and bedside gun. A good stiff belt really helps.

    So far, here is the wear, some holster wear, and some from firing. I belive the black finish is Beretta's standard bruntion and anodized finish, and it seems to be holding up ok. Its a relatively grippy finish, which is nice. I'd be lying if I said I didn't find black berettas to have attractive wear patters. If black isn't your thing, Beretta also has olive drab/black, grey/black, and flat dark earth. Afaik the other finishes are ceracoat, which I am personally not a fan of.

    The magazines that come with the gun are 17 rounders with a very nice PVD coating, but any 92 magazine with the proper catch cuts will work. I've been mostly using mec gar 18 and 20 round mags, and haven't had any trouble. I also scrounged a few flush fit CMI 15 rounders that I use for a bit of extra concealment. I will say one bad thing about the 17 round mags, they are absurdly difficult to load to capacity. I'm not kidding, even my Up-Lulas struggle to put in 17, and I've lost 2 glock mag loaders to these mags. Note the pistol doesn't come with a loading tool

    Holster availability is... Interesting, for berettas. If you have a holster meant for an M9A1, the A3 will work. Everything else MIGHT work, depending on how fit a holster is, but there's no guarante. I'm trying out a crossbreed, and jurys out. For work, I'm using a safariland 3280. SLS isn't my jam, but it works well enough. I found a 7ts that works, but having heard and seen (not personally) 7ts holsters cracking, this holster isn't my favorite. I always have an M12, and that thing works with everything. For fancier occasions I got a nice leather thumb break from Berettas e-store. My go-to magpul belts don't really have the strength to handle the Beretta, but I've been using one of THESE, and it works beautifully.

    20190519_050516.thumb.jpg.8f29c3ca43f1af8659181de45b86a552.jpg

    I have changed the gun up a bit, a wilson fluted guide rod, a Wilson mag guide, and elite II hammer. I messed around with a Wolff TCU, but found that it was too short to allow the DA trigger to reset. For those who like to mix and match their Berettas, the M9A3 is fully compatible with the other 9X guns, save for the 92A1/90-two (Beretta needs an intervention in the name dept) these two exceptions, while largely based on the 9X series, were a evolutionary dead end, but many parts still interchange with the 92A1 in particular.

    Detail stripping the 9X berettas, while not as simple as a Glock, is IMHO easier than Sig or CZ. These are older guns, designed in the 60's and 70's, you are going to have to deal with this stuff with all of them. The frame isn't too bad, but the slide is something that I try to avoid.

    At the very least, there aren't many wear parts on the beretta that you can't get to quickly. Even the springs are pretty easy to deal with.

    The M9A3 isn't a pistol I'd reccomend to everyone, DA/SA, while arguably a good and safe fighting trigger, takes time to master. The gun costs more, and is more complex than many striker fired 9mm's that populate the market. Being aluminum framed, it also weighs more. Though it still shows CZ's up as the pigs they really are. I'd say something about Sigs but when you have as many variations as Sig does, saying anything becomes near impossible. The M9A3 balances better, and isn't made by Sig, which is really all you need to know.

    However, if you can swing the price, and put the time and money into practice, the M9A3 is certainly a capable pistol. Mec gar mags certainly make the deal sweeter, flush fit 18 round mags make it all that much better. Being the side arm for the US military for almost 40 years, and being one of the most tested handguns in history, it's a safe bet that the 92 series is a good gun.

    Since I couldn't figure out where to put this, the very end seems to be a good spot. All guns have a certain "X factor". A little thing that makes you go "ahh yes" like a small pocket pistol that lets you carry almost everywhere, something that makes you realize what you've been missing

    The Berettas x factor is how incredibly smooth it is. Even fresh out of the box, the M9A3's slide feels like ball bearings on glass, and the trigger just feels good.

    Compared to the Taurus 92's, which I've had a few people mention, the A3 is on a completely different level, even standard 92's fall short of the A3. 
     

     

    I like it a lot, but if you just want a good, reliable handgun, just get a modern striker fired pistol.

    20190417_120922.jpg

    • Like 1

  16. 10,000 rounds through one gun taught me a lot, but all i was doing was making a hole. Should I, god forbid, need to use a handgun defensively, some actual training would most definitely come in handy.

     

    An opportunity arose to take a rather informal corse with a local instructor, and I jumped at the chance. I'm not kidding when i say that I learned more in those few hours than I did in over 10 years of shooting on my own

    The point of this post is to both point out that you don't need to spend thousands of dollars to get training from Larry Vickers, or Travis Haley, you need someone who knows how to teach and can keep their eyes on you. And can shoot well, of course.

     

    While my class was free, ammo wasn't, and I would have happily paid for the class itself. 

     

    What did I learn? 

    Focus on front sight, don't worry about speed. Stance needs work. Get out of 2 shot rut. Learn to use cover, avoid fatal funnels. Be willing to move.

    Large and bright front sights help. My 19X had ameriglo agents, and I still lost the front sight once or twice

    Stop using bench at range to help stand up, creating a scar

    Posistion 3/point shooting needs work.

     

    The "scenarios" were just left over USPSA stages, and we were treating it as a house/building. I found it difficult to treat the barricades as actual "cover", since I could see right through them. My first few runs were rough due to me wanting to pop every target I saw at each spot, which was all of them. Somewhat related, I need to be more willing to to move and shoot, though we really didn't do a whole lot of moving while shooting, aside from a few figure 8 drills (walking a figure 8 around 2 55gal drums while shooting 1 target. This is my 2 shot rut. The point is that shooting twice might not be necessary, you may need to shoot 1, 3, 4, 5, etc times, and a double tap might be too much, or too little.

     

    I need to slow down. While I didn't rush myself, and I look like a snail next to whichever A-lister taran tactical is training, there were a few shots I flubbed simply due to me not slowing down just a tad.

     

    We also did come cadence drills, where the goal is to have target transitions match your split time. I understand the principles behind it, bit I'm not sure what I got out of it.

     

    To delve a bit further in, you have an array of 3 targets, starting on the left target, the left gets 1 shot, second gets 2, third target gets 3, you then move back to the second target, shoot it 4 times, and move back to the first, and pop it 5 times. After doing this, we simplified it to shooting each target once. It made a bit more sense after that.

     

    Point shooting could use more work i feel. We (me and my co-worker were both hitting a steel target about 50% of the time at 20/25 yards. I tapped out at 20.

     

    My draw needed some real work, and so draw and presentations have been added to my dry fire routine, but I was surprised to find my draw time wasn't that bad, at under 2 seconds consistently. I was using a safariland ALS though. Which is near cheating.

     

    Apparently I did better than I thought I did. Of the 4 times we did the scenario, I only fragged a hostage once, and it was an arm shot.

     

    As far as gear goes, well, mag pouches are an absolute must. And even with 20 rounds in the gun, it goes QUICK.

     

    Training is worth it's weight in gold. It's important that you go in with an open mind, and be willing to take any criticism that comes your way.

     

    If you are around Houston/Clear lake, and need some pistol instruction/LTC classes, hit up Viper weapons.

     

    • Like 1

  17. I've noticed the glock really likes armscor 115gr. Targets are starting to look like this more often than not

    545102997_PointBlur_Apr042019_213239.thumb.jpg.0288269e871a2460e0071c1359ac1a90.jpg

     

    Two more malfs to log, again with winchester forged. These were rounds that had been laying under my bed in a cardboard box for like a year. I like this gun.


  18. 2 hours ago, Brad said:

    There's one on Gunbroker now.  Looks rough.  I tapped out at 35.00.  I hang out there looking for a steal now and again.

    (item # 806406384 if you want to look for it)

    Not sure I'd want to mess with a colt revolver without laying hands on it first. Of the big 3 (Colt, S&W, Ruger) common revolver brands, Colts will generally be the first to develop timing issues, and very few gunsmiths are capable of working on them. The worst part is a short drop can often knock them out of time.

     

    I've seen some *absurdly* out of time Colts.

    • Like 1

  19. Just now, dthomasdigital said:

    Someone took good care of that gun, it looks brand new.

    It's been sitting in a gun sock for a few decades. From what I gather, it was bought at a gun show a long time ago.

    You can pretty easily find spots where the nickle is flaking, but its not bad, and the internals are clean.

     

    It's brought out my inner 40's mobster, I've probably said "gat" and "roscoe" at least 30 times 😂

     

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