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zackmars

Mossberg 590A1

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15 minutes ago, Rspreps said:

What’s the ‘kick back’ on the little brother?

Havent shot mine yet, but have shot a friends.

 

It's not too bad with standard buck and slug loads, assuming you use the right stance.

 

 

Low recoil buck and slugs are very manageable, and are IMHO the way to go.

 

Birdshot is extremely fun.

 

Theres no pistol grip to jam into the web of your hand, so it's nowhere near as uncomfortable as a full pistol grip.

I'll have a full post up on this thing by monday or tues.

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Shot it today, federal low recoil tru-ball low recoil slugs, aguila mini slugs, and federal #8 birdshot, 2 3/4.

Shoots high, as will any shotgun with a shorter barrel and a bead sight. I tend to pull a little left with shotguns. My dad kept pulling right, so im pretty sure its our fault. I would have gotten pics, but we couldn't shoot buck, and they have no targets for birdshot, so our trip was like 15 minutes.

Its a jumpy little gun, but manageable. Going to put a brace on it

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3 hours ago, zackmars said:

Deja vu. I'm really not happy about this. Maybe 50 rounds, all low recoil.

You should be a golden boy for pointing out a materials/design flaw.  They're going to have to mail out a better replacement part to each purchaser or jeopardise an old reputation.

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1 hour ago, Rick said:

You should be a golden boy for pointing out a materials/design flaw.  They're going to have to mail out a better replacement part to each purchaser or jeopardise an old reputation.

The screw that holds all the safety compinents together is a one way screw, or whatever it's called. So they aren't sending out anything other than RMA's

 

The safety on my shockwave has held up well, so maybe they had a bad batch. We'll see.

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3 hours ago, zackmars said:

The screw that holds all the safety compinents together is a one way screw, or whatever it's called. So they aren't sending out anything other than RMA's

 

The safety on my shockwave has held up well, so maybe they had a bad batch. We'll see.

My experience with "one way" "tamper proof" screws is they are like padlocks that keep honest people out. First set I ran into was on a car stereo that needed repair, the owner was still explaining to my boss how it was going to be impossible for me to remove the unit when I walked in with it. I did ask if he wanted the original screws re-installed after the repair.

Still looks like a cast metal part, probably done with a hole and then tapped, any casting fault will be stressed during the tapping process, and as it will be a thin area during casting and likely to cool faster, it's a likely failure point. Good reason to switch to making that part by machining a solid block.

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14 hours ago, Gary_Gough said:

My experience with "one way" "tamper proof" screws is they are like padlocks that keep honest people out. First set I ran into was on a car stereo that needed repair, the owner was still explaining to my boss how it was going to be impossible for me to remove the unit when I walked in with it. I did ask if he wanted the original screws re-installed after the repair.

Still looks like a cast metal part, probably done with a hole and then tapped, any casting fault will be stressed during the tapping process, and as it will be a thin area during casting and likely to cool faster, it's a likely failure point. Good reason to switch to making that part by machining a solid block.

True. Numrich has the parts...

 

I'll give it one more go. The safety has held up well on my shockwave, so maybe it was a bad batch. 

 

Have any good suggestions on what tools to use on these screws? These are way to soft to use a regular screwdriver

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1 hour ago, zackmars said:

True. Numrich has the parts...

 

I'll give it one more go. The safety has held up well on my shockwave, so maybe it was a bad batch. 

 

Have any good suggestions on what tools to use on these screws? These are way to soft to use a regular screwdriver

Well, sight unseen.... if the sides are at all accessible, a set of good side cutters can grip a screw. Need to be careful to align across the center, pinch enough to make a small dent on both sides ( they may slip off a few times, practice helps ) and then twist counter clockwise assuming a right hand thread ( very good odds ). I'll try to find a couple of pictures of the better tools. Some cheap ones don't align very well, one jaw longer then the other, a grinder can fix that.

142177_R_Z001.thumb.jpeg.a573c0553071f40ed40c9e5f55af50e2.jpeg

These  ^ will take the most force. but in a tighter spot these ٧ could be a better option.

Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter.thumb.jpg.5410cbd3d8cc63efc15045b8715501cc.jpg

If you can snap a picture, it will help.

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A little more awake now. ( wrote the last at the end of a night shift )  If you plan to replace the screw ... nuclear option. With a dremmel abrasive wheel worn nearly to the end ( so small diameter ) slice a slot into the head of the screw. Works on recessed screws. If it's all above the surface, a new wheel will cut a full slot.

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14 hours ago, Gary_Gough said:

Well, sight unseen.... if the sides are at all accessible, a set of good side cutters can grip a screw. Need to be careful to align across the center, pinch enough to make a small dent on both sides ( they may slip off a few times, practice helps ) and then twist counter clockwise assuming a right hand thread ( very good odds ). I'll try to find a couple of pictures of the better tools. Some cheap ones don't align very well, one jaw longer then the other, a grinder can fix that.

142177_R_Z001.thumb.jpeg.a573c0553071f40ed40c9e5f55af50e2.jpeg

These  ^ will take the most force. but in a tighter spot these ٧ could be a better option.

Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter.thumb.jpg.5410cbd3d8cc63efc15045b8715501cc.jpg

If you can snap a picture, it will help.

Not my picture, but its good enough.

 

It breaks again I'm going full bubba with my dremel

mossberg-model-500-zmb_005.jpg

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Haven't gotten my gun back yet, but i took a look at my shockwave and 835,. The part that is breaking on the 590a1 is phosphated, while the same part on the other guns are silver-y. They haven't broken yet, so that specific part might be the way to go as far as replacing it myself.

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The style of screw head is an exact match for early 1970s "theft proof" Cadillac car stereo screws, but being inset the side cutters don't have a good purchase. If the metal is soft enough, dental drills may do a good job turning the two ramp sections into verticals too.

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5 minutes ago, Gary_Gough said:

The style of screw head is an exact match for early 1970s "theft proof" Cadillac car stereo screws, but being inset the side cutters don't have a good purchase. If the metal is soft enough, dental drills may do a good job turning the two ramp sections into verticals too.

i found a tamper proof bit set on amazon, we'll see how that works out before i do anything i might regret.

 

If that doesn't pan out, I'll just dremel the safety button off, back out the screw with some pliers and get a bunch of replacement parts off numrich.

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Got the gun back today. The part is still the parkerized version, and they replaced all the same stuff they did last time, and test fired it 6 times. 

 

The repair list has different nomenclature than the list from the last repair, probably the same parts though.

1199937849_Capture_2018-06-25-15-15-29.thumb.png.404720783ec8d5096046856c7f6d7e87.png

 

Safety feels like it did before it broke. Hopefully it holds up.

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